Haute couture speaks to one’s heritage and savoir-faire. Each fashion house holds a world of distinct outstanding craftsmanship and tailoring, a sum of signature style. Nimble hands grace lace, embroidery, pleated fabrics and feathered flowers filled with artistic aroma. The Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture collections is a hand-picked bouquet of this season’s crème de la crème, a balance of the beauty of earth’s nature and man’s heritage.
Ralph & Russo
A delicate femininity reigned at Ralph & Russo, with classic nipped-in silhouettes updated in sculptural volume. Fragile spring florals waft in periwinkles and lavenders of meticulously detailed blossoms appliquéd or hand-painted in a nod to Chinese calligraphy, also referenced in the ink-blue of linings. The palest of petal pinks evoke flowering sakura, while exposed shoulders and streaming kimono-like fabrics bring to mind the subtle femme of geisha.
Chanel’s classic elegance sweetens up with an unexpectedly bohemian, almost pastoral spin for the spring, floaty organic forms channeling wood nymphs and garden sprites. Nature-themed detail is woven into tulles and intricately pleated chiffons, quite literally – in the form of real wood shavings, feathers, and embroidered motifs of bees, birds, and country florals. A spectrum of trademark beige anchors the collection’s roots, while balanced silhouettes play with volume and texture.
eeping true to their unmistakably timeless character, Valentino’s spring runways looked back to take their cues from free-spirited history: romantic turn-of-the-century Venetian opulence, with the classicism of flowing Grecian forms; the simplicity of column dresses interspersed with theatrical brocade robes. The masterful fabric treatment that the Italian house is known for shined as always, in knotted velvet nets and elaborately embroidered silks.